You really never know what to expect when you visit the Maremma.
So little is known about this corner of Southern Tuscany. First time tourists almost always miss it. Instead it’s often the domain of seasoned travelers who have already seen everything else Italy has to offer and are looking for more. More often than not, they’re blown away.
There is nothing quite like it. Here quaint medieval and Renaissance towns are separated by thick forests of chestnuts and sprawling green fields of olive groves that stretch to the sea. Secluded, they’ve become their own little worlds, separated by diverse histories and cultures, but united by their love of quiet and good food and wine.
Le Cascate del Mulino are amongst all of this, the symbol of the unpretentious beauty and the positively enviable landscape the Maremmani enjoy everyday… or at least for me.The first time I visited these waterfalls just outside the town of Saturnia I thought I was in complete and utter paradise. Now that sounds cliché, but at the time it perfectly summed up how I felt watching the waterfalls rush into pools etched into travertine rock over the centuries to create a natural spa, where the water is warm and the view is to die for.
Actually the word warm doesn’t really do this water justice. It’s 37°C constantly and comes from a source underground containing sulphur and other minerals, which I’m told have been curing minor ailments since the time of the Romans.
Cascate del Mulino in Maremma: the best kept secret
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0hUclMDitI[/youtube]Thrifty locals think the Cascate del Mulino are their best kept secret. Most tourists enjoy the same water in the world-renowned spa complex down the road, completely unaware of these waterfalls, which are often filled with Maremmani gossiping and showing off. I too can’t resist the pull of them. The entry’s free and I think they’re complete antithesis of the modern and at times cold spa. After all, sitting in a man-made pool with tiles and concrete as far as the eye can see can hardly be compared to soaking in naturally carved rock wells with the sound of waterfalls rushing behind you and the splendour of the Tuscan countryside before you.
Personally, I’m addicted to these waterfalls. I visit them all the time. Even in the middle of winter, when I’m barely coping with the freezing European climate that’s nothing like the Australian one I grew up in. Sure it’s torture getting your gear off, but once you’re immersed in the waters, it’s indescribable heaven, trust me.Take my advice though and make sure you set aside plenty of time to enjoy the warm waters, regardless of whether you’re brave enough to take a dip in winter or prefer to wait for warmer weather. I have seen people who are usually punctual lose hours at these waterfalls, and I don’t blame them. The extremely welcoming waters combined with the picturesque beauty of the landscape is simply too good to leave, like a jacuzzi in the middle of paradise! And if you get there early enough, you can often beat the crowds and enjoy the gorgeous view and warm waters just like the local do.
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This guestpost was written by Elisa Scarton – an Australian journalist who came to Tuscany to teach English and quite simply never left. Foreigner-turned-local, she now writes a blog about Tuscany and the Maremma, a corner of Tuscany that is particularly close to her heart, in hopes of inspiring other intrepid travellers to get a taste of ‘la dolce vita’.
















I was there 8 days ago with 3 brothers of mine. i know this place since 40 years now. if you go there, go to Porto Ercole in Monte Argentario, 60 km from Saturnia ( 1 hour driving )
Hi assurancetourix,
Thanks for your tip! We hope to talk about Porto Ercole here on the blog soon.
Hello
My name is Abraracourcix and I was there in Saturnia with my brother Assurancetourix
“mon barde” . Magic place if you are in this place with Panoramix and Jelatrix . Kiss
[...] Do you remember we talked about the hot springs of Saturnia before on [...]
I have been there and is a real treatmente the special place to relax and find yourself, i really love it.
http://www.wildheartoftuscany.com
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[...] Montemerano is a 12th Century town in the heart of Maremma. The distance from Montemerano and Grosseto is 55 km, but you’ll probably enjoy staying a couple of days in the Montemerano surrounding areas to visit also Manciano and have a nice time at Saturnia hot springs. [...]
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I am really wanting to go but I wont have a car how can get to this place with out one? Im in love
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Rent a car in the town of Grosseto (the nearest train station) and it’s an hour drive. There are also B&Bs which arrange shuttle service from the airport or whatnot, then offer bike rentals (and often for free).
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Can someone direct me how to get there please, where is the nearest twn to travel from, never been to Tuscany before and havent’t even decided where to stay yet lol. Would quite like somewhere lively but from where I can travel easily to these springs. Thanks guys
We are travelling on our honeymoon and would love to stay in Italian family, eating Italian food and be Italians for 5 days. Anyone know place like that around Le Cascate del Mulino area?
Do you have any recommendations of what to see, where to stay in this area, how to get there, etc – never been to Italy and I’m going to visit for the first time in the next year or less. What season is best if I enjoy warmth over cold? Restaurants? Home stays? Thank you! (I’m reading all the posts below too) Becky
We got here by bus & train! It was quite simple!
We did not have a car – we got a room in Gosetto (right next to the train station – we were on our way to Rome from Florence) – we took a bus to Marciano and then another bus up to the mountains that left us off right at the site – goosepimples when I even think about how beautiful this place was and how our skin was silky soft for a good month and a half – the bad part was we missed the last bus into Marciano – and there were six of us stuck on a mountain – it was a very magical mystery tour! After two hours of no buses – and starting to get dark – I waved down a school bus – with children – who allowed us to join them and they drove us back to Marciano – however – still 52 km away from Grosetto and no buses, no taxi, no hotel, no car rental – we walked around wondering how do we get back – there would be a bus at 9:30 to another town where we could catch a train that would take us to Grosetto where our hotel was – instead we met a wonderful woman from Georgia USA, who was visiting her mother – who owned property in Tuscany and she offerred to get one of her drivers for us – we ended up driving back to Grosetto while the sun was setting over Tuscany – in a BMW Van and my favorite photograph (out of the 1600 I took) was from this van – we got back to our hotel at about midnight – and this magical day was by favoite of all of Italy. This is a MUST VISIT – and the cost is nothing – The whole day was beautiful and exciting and without domes. I’m going back!
Would you be able to give more details about which busses you took to reach the site? Thanks!
Also how far away is this area from the actual Terme di Saturnia?