The Medici family were rulers of Florence for hundreds of years. In the city of Florence they lived first at the Medici-Riccardi Palace on via Larga (now via Cavour), then in the seat of government, Palazzo Vecchio, and then moved to the other side of the Arno to the Pitti Palace. But, like most rich people, they also had various homes in the countryside which were used at different times of the year (like to keep cool in summer) or for different functions (like hunting). While the city homes are called “palazzo“, the country homes are called “villa“.
Medici Villa at Petraia, garden (Photo: flickr @pynomoscato)
These Medici villas cycled in and out of fashion amongst the members of the family. Many of these villas can still be visited today, some by public bus, others preferably by car. The following is a description of what you can see at each of these, and there’s a google map at the bottom so that you can plan your own itinerary to incorporate as many as you wish.
Poggio a Caiano
Poggio a Caiano Medici villa (photo @arttrav)
Poggio a Caiano (in the province of Prato) was commissioned by Lorenzo dei Medici (“The Magnificent”) to the architect Giuliano Sangallo (built 1485-1520), it is a Renaissance villa with an important exterior staircase and “temple front” on the facade. Visitors are accompanied through the villa hourly, but while you wait for your entrance time you can visit the beautiful gardens with abundant lemon and other citrus trees. Inside, the highlight is without a doubt the room with fresoes by Mannerist artists Andrea del Sarto, Alessandro Allori and Pontormo.
The upper floor of this villa contains, since 2007, a museum of still life painting that can be visited upon prior reservation.
How to get there; take the SITA bus for Pistoia or Prato and it stops right out front.
Careggi
Villa and Garden at Careggi
The Villa di Careggi (not far from Florence city, near the main hospital) was much loved by Cosimo il Vecchio, and was restored for him by the architect Michelozzo who adapted an earlier building for the Medici. This was the seat of the famed Accademia Platonica Fiorentina where Renaissance philosophers like Pico della Mirandola and Marsilio Ficino discussed Christian applications of Ancient theories.
The interior of this villa is mainly used for offices but the garden can be visited for free. To get there: ATAF bus #14.
Cerreto Guidi
This is a rather rustic hunting villa, built in the mid 16th century for Cosimo I de’ Medici. An imposing brick ramp out front is attributed to the architect Buontalenti; it ensured easy access to the villa and created a useful retention system for the embankment, which collapsed on various occasions over the centuries. Isabella de’ Medici, daughter of Cosimo I, was strangled by her husband Paolo Giordano Orsini for suspected infidelity here in 1576.
Inside, appropriately, is a hunting museum, and some Medici portraits and tapestries. Entrance is free. To get there: easier by car; otherwise by train to Empoli and a bus to Cerreto Guidi (the town).
Artimino
Villa Artimino set up for a big wedding lunch (photo: artimino.com)
The Villa Medicea Artimino (in Carmignano) is usually visited in conjunction with Poggio a Caiano as they are close to one another. It also is known as “La Ferdinanda” or the villa of the hundred chimneys. This villa is now known for its excellent production of wine, and is rented out for weddings! But previously it was used for the less romantic activity of hunting – built for Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici around 1600. Nowadays you can visit the grounds and the small Archaeological museum in the basement that houses some important Etruscan findings from tombs nearby.
The nearby town of Carmignano has a beautiful and important painting of the Visitation by Pontormo in the parish church of San Michele – an example of the Mannerist artist’s use of colour and volume to communicate emotion.
Villa Demidoff (Pratolino)
The original villa (called Pratolino) in this large park is long gone – it was built by Francesco I de’Medici to entertain his mistress Bianca Cappello. Nowadays, you come here mainly for a walk and maybe for a picnic in the park. Sit down on the lawn near the massive statue by Giambologna representing the Appenine mountains (read more about him here). A description and map of the park is available in italian here.
To get there: ATAF bus #25a. The park has a small entrance ticket and is only open on weekends.
Villa “La Petraia”
A Renaissance meal in the frescoed courtyard of Villa Petraia (photo: flickr @HouseofSims)
Visits to this beautiful villa from the Cinquecento are by guided tours every 45 minutes. Purchased by the Medici family in the late 16th century, it later became the residence of King Vittorio Emanuele II so you can see some rich 19th-century furniture and an interesting collection of contemporary board games. The real artist highlight here is the courtyard (now enclosed with a glass roof) with 17th-century frescoes, and a bronze statue by Giambologna that used to grace a garden fountain. Speaking of gardens, this is another point not to miss – the terraced geometric gardens were designed by the Renaissance architect and sculptor Tribolo (who also had his hand in the Boboli Gardens).
Entrance is 3 euros. To get there: ATAF bus #28 towards Sesto Fiorentino. Until September 2011, the villa also has a special display of the “Coronation of the Virgin” by Botticelli (see exhibit info).
Villa Medici di Castello
Garden at Castello, detail from lunette by Utens
This villa, easy walking distance from Petraia, is now the seat of the “Accademia della Crusca” (founded in 1583) who observe and set out the rules of the Italian language. So we can’t disturb them… but we can visit their garden (for free)! Another project by Tribolo, but much altered in time, it’s a formal affair with box hedges and pebbled pathways.
Villa Medici Cafaggiolo
A little further out of town (car required) is this villa near Barberino di Mugello that, in the first half of the 15th century, was restored from its old castle form into that of a Renaissance villa for the Medici. The new villa, surrounded by a large garden and one of the most famous game reserves in the area, became the Medici families favourite summer residence. Lorenzo il Magnifico in particular liked to invite his friends here, including such men of letters and artists as Marsilio Ficino and Pico della Mirandola. A Ceramics Manufactory was built alongside the castle for the production of everyday objects and more valuable items.
The villa is now used for weddings but also open to tourists (hours vary), although its inside is not quite as exciting as one might hope.
Google Map of Medici Villas
View Medici Villas Florence Tuscany in a larger map
