Eating in Maremma

pic by Erica Donolato

A couple of weeks ago I was in Maremma for the Spring Cup Regata, what is there to say….. I love sports but as usual they bore me quite fast, so I began exploring foodie hot spots!

Forget the warm, hearthy tuscan food! There’s another side of Tuscany, called the Argentario where fresh fish rules. Same principles of tuscan cuisine are applied along the coast, of course, however it is a very much a fish cuisine.

The Spring Cup was based in Marina di Grosseto, in a bathing establishment called Moreno Beach – the beach in Maremma is sandy and the water is crystal blue.  I had lunch at Moreno’s restaurant and found they had a pretty unusual menu – this is why I decided to interview the owner on his culinary roots and on the dishes he offered. Walter Maretti – his wife, son and daughter manage the place and they were all happy to let me into their secrets! Walter began by telling me that he changes the menu very often and uses genuine fresh produce. The tables are practically on the beach and the menu is clearly focused on fish and light first courses or salads! Moreno is known for the Cacciucco he serves -  I had already mentioned this tuscan fish stew amongst the top 10 things you shouldn’t miss in Tuscany! This fish stew famous in Livorno and Viareggio is here prepared in a slightly different way, but this difference does change the entire dish.

The fish is cleaned and deboned, this implies you can it the soup using a spoon and nothing will trouble you – whereas in the other two cities mentioned the entire fish is used. There’s an all time favorite Spaghetti allo Scoglio and cold Insalate di

Mare but Walter describes another two very interesting dishes: a sautè of Mussels and Chickpeas and Gnocchi with Clams.

Food Events in June in the Maremma – this upcoming weekend!

Presidios a Tavola: flavors of the Argentario

June 26-27-28 in Porto Santo Stefano at the Fortezza Spagnola

Local produce and food from the Argentario and a series of restaurants with the authentic flavors will offer a menu at a fixed price. For Further info – click on the above link.