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Francigena Leg 4: Avenza to Pietrasanta

Legend and history on the Pilgrim's pathway

A stage starts from Avenza that is 27.8km, which takes about 6 hours. The journey begins on a road between the vineyards, along the hills and between Avenza and Massa, with views of the Apuan Alps and the sea.

The route crosses the center of Massa, before travelling up to Montignoso, with the
Aghinolfi castle and the old toll of Porta Beltrame, near the lake of Porta. Another scenic road leads to the river of Versilia, which was once overcome by wading to get to the church of Santo Stefano in Vallecchia. The stage ends in Pietrasanta, home of sculpture in marble, a destination for artists from around the world.

Fair access to water, eateries in Massa, Montignoso, Strettoia.


SEE THE ROUTE

Total length (km): 27.8
Kind of travel: On foot, mountain bike
Travel time on foot (h: min): 6.15
Difference in height (m): 409
Descent (m): 400
Maximum height (m): 183
Difficulty: Challenging
Paved roads: 90%
Dirt roads and driveways: 5%
Mule tracks and trails: 5%
Cycling: 98%
Getting to the starting point: La Spezia-Rome railway line, Carrara-Avenza
station

WHAT TO SEE
Legends, popular traditions, historical testimonies: this is the Via Francigena. The pilgrim road  passes through Lucca, Altopascio, and the Versilia from Camaiore to Seravezza.

Seravezza
Museum of Work and Popular Traditions in Historic Versilia– A pilgrim at Palazzo Mediceo.
In 2002, where the Museum of Work and Popular Traditions is currently located, human bones were found in an archeological dig. The skeleton was immediately interesting: it is male, died under the age of 40, was of humble origins and lived between 790 and 1000 B.C.

The latest analysis conducted by the University of Pisa added important information about the origins and reasons behind its burial in a place that was desolate and unknown at the time. The most likely explanation is that the individual was a pilgrim on the nearby Via Francigena that was buried in this spot because he was an unknown foreigner.

Camaiore
Museum of Sacred Art and the Church of San Michele - Camaiore: stopping point with hospitality and personal attention along the Via Francigena.
The city of Camaiore, located along the ancient trail of the Via Francigena, was cited with the name of “Campmaior” as the 27th stop on Sigerico’s itinerary. Sigerico was the Archbishop of Canterbury who took the journey in 990. He likely stayed at the Benedictine monastery of San Pietro, which dates back to the 8th century and is now part of the monumental complex of the Badia di Camaiore.

The ancient road crosses the center of Camaiore’s historic center and offers several options for hospitality. The Chiesa di San Micheleis an example of a place that offered hospitality to pilgrims. First cited in 1180, pilgrims could find hospitality at San Michele, as they could at the hospital now home to the Sacred Art Museum. Recent archeological findings in the area surrounding the church point to the existence of a cemetery where pilgrims died who were on the Via or in the area hospitals. Documents from the 14th and 15th centuries attest to the fact that foreigners who died at the San Michele Hospital were buried “inside” and “around” the church.

Lucca
Cattedrale Museum – The minstril and the Volto Santo di Lucca: story of a miracle along the Via Francigena
Many miracles have been attributed to the Volto Santo; the large wooded statue made Lucca one of the most important stops on the Via Francigena. The most well-known is that of Leobino, a man on a pilgrimage in 1282 in Lucca. He entered the Duomo and began singing as he didn’t have anything else to offer. Suddenly, the silver shoe on Jesus’ right foot came to rest on his knee—twice. They are now exhibited in the museum along with the precious garments used to dress the statue on May 3 and September 14.

Lucca - Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi - San Jacopo
During the course of the Middle Ages, Lucca became an important stop on the pilgrimage road. The area boasted numerous structures that offered hospitality to welcome travelers; the most important being the Spedale di Altopascio. One of the most significant artworks of the period is the bas-relief that depicts San Jacopo (late 12th c.), now housed in the Villa Guinigi National Museum. When San Jacopo’s tomb was sent to Galicia in the 9th century, stations on the pilgrims trail were covered with images of the saint as the protector of pilgrims.

The image in the museum is different than the typical iconography associated with the saint. This image features Saint James sitting on a throne with a scroll bearing the inscription IACOBUS DEI ET DOMINI NOSTRI IESUS XRISTI SERVUS. It was inspired by a 4th century sculpture and is one of the most interesting examples of Pisan-Lucchese production from the late 12th century and was probably part of an altarpiece that has been reconstructed in the Lucca museum.

Altopascio
Archeology Exposition of the History of the Ancient Hospital of Altopascio on the Via Francigena
The large, medieval hospital center in Altopascio has a unique artistic and historic importance connected to the hospitality it gave to pilgrims. The area still hosts numbers of pilgrims each year, most of them staying in the Foresteria managed by the City. The history of Altopascio begins with the Ospitalieri del Tau at the end of the 11th century. They assisted pilgrims, the sick and poor on the Via Francigena.

They were quite active; so much so that the brothers founded various branches in Italy and Europe. By 1191, Altopascio was known simple as “Le Hospital”. Boccaccio, Machiavelli and Shakespeare all mentioned the town in their works. A small but interesting archeological museum is located next to the farm’s grain silos. The museum’s contents are testimony of the various material aspects of the city from the 12th to the 19th century.
 
  

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