The gently rolling hills of the Chianti countryside provide an ideal Springtime holiday destination. The area boasts 70 thousand hectares of vineyards, all surrounded by the harmonious symmetry of swaying cypress tress and oak woods. Italy’s most internationally famous wine is produced here and Spring is really the best season to enjoy the area’s natural colors and fragrances, as well as the abbeys, churches, small towns, castles, farm houses and winding walled tracks which all bear witness to the region’s ancient history.
Many of the small towns in the Chianti region have town squares with 15th century porticos. Several of these characteristic town squares host markets between March and June where visitors can sample the many typical local products such as wine, oil, honey, seasonal fruit and vegetables, many cheeses made from sheep’s, goat’s and cow’s milk, as well as delicious jams and conserves.
The towns of Greve, Panzano, Strada in Chianti and Radda are all just a short drive south of Florence (north of Siena and west of Arezzo). Each of these towns offer visitors a vast choice of activities. Volterra is also nearby, famous for its Etruscan treasures. Fiesole is another must and is home to a fascinating collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts. Tuscany is also home to 22 spa towns, more than any other region in the country. Many of these are close to Chianti and provide the perfect place to relax and regenerate both body and soul after the cold Winter months. The hot thermal springs work wonders and can be found at Bagni San Filippo, Bagno Vignoni, Rapolano and Saturnia, to name but a few.
The Mugello region provides an interesting alternative to Chianti. The area sits on a high plain surrounded by the hills and mountains that rise up to the north of Florence. This area was home to the Medici family and visitors can enjoy the splendors of the Medici family villas at Cafaggiolo and Trebbio. Mugello was also the birthplace of the artistic maestros Giotto and Beato Angelico. Local artisans produce incredible knives in the town of Scarperia, following the same ancient traditional methods which have been used since medieval times. Mugello also boasts Lake Bilancino with its numerous beaches, windsurfing, excellent fishing and many traditional restaurants which serve the region’s famous potato tortelli, roast meats and olive oil bruschetta (fettunta). Just a short distance from the motorway exit by Lake Bilancino is one of Italy’s most famous shopping discount outlets. Visitors will find the best international fashions at exceptionally low prices. Car and motorbike lovers should take the opportunity to visit the Mugello racing circuit. It’s here that Ferrari test run their F1 cars and where Valentino Rossi has often celebrated his victories in the MotoGP.
Summer in Tuscany. Seaside or mountains?
Summer in Italy is normally synonymous with the seaside. Tuscany boasts over 600kms of coastline, including its islands. The coast differs from the private beaches in Versilia, to the rocky coast of Elba and Castigliocello and the wild Baratti and Punta Ala beaches with their backdrop of fir trees and dunes. The main coast road, the ancient Roman Aurelia, was made famous in the film ‘Il Sorpasso’ starring Gassmann and Trintignant. This road links all the Tuscan beaches right from the border with Liguria to the north, down to the southern border with Lazio.
There are many watch towers along the coast, such as those in the Uccellina Park; solitary castles like those found in Castiglion della Pescaia; Liberty buildings such as those in Livorno and isolated farms like those in Bolgheri. The sea off the Tuscan coast is officially recognized as being among the cleanest in Italy. The region’s islands are full of ancient towns, deserted bays, uncontaminated nature and a host of restaurants serving excellent fresh fish and seafood.
However, the seaside is just one Summer option in Tuscany. Mount Amiata (1738m) is an excellent choice for a trek for those who don’t want to stray too far from the coast. This mountain boasts several medieval towns and shady chestnut woods. The uncontaminated natural landscape is also home to some thermal spa towns such as Saturnia and Bagni San Filippo where weary visitors can make the most of the thermal springs. Other interesting mountainous areas include Mount Capanna on Elba Island and the imperious Apuan Alps which jut up behind Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi.
For those who prefer the city, there’s always a lot going on in Florence, Pisa, Siena and Arezzo in the Summer. Many local traditional festivals and ancient contests take place in the hottest months, such as Siena’s Palio horse race which inflames local tempers and divides the whole town twice every Summer. Florence, on the other hand, celebrates the city’s patron saint’s day on 24th June (San Giovanni) by holding an historic football match in full Renaissance costume. It is said that both football and rugby originate in 16th century Florence. On the evening of the 24th June, fireworks are set off from Piazzale Michelangelo which reflect magnificently on the Arno river. Pisa also holds an annual historic contest called ‘il gioco del ponte’, or ‘the game of the bridge’, after which a festival is held in the city center. The city of Arezzo holds the ‘giostra del Saracino’, an ancient equestrian contest.
Autumn in Tuscany
Autumn in Tuscany means the grape harvest, horse chestnuts and olives. These are just part of what Tuscany has to offer at this time of year. The hills change color with every gust of wind, while the leaves turn yellow and red in the soft Autumn light. A trip to Tuscany in Autumn is the perfect time to discover the region’s traditional cuisine and local delicacies.
The grape harvest is followed by the production of the year’s first olive oil. Chestnuts are turned into flour which is then used to make traditional dishes such as necci and castagnaccio. These are typical products of the Apennines near Pistoia and in Garfagnana. Garfagnana is a lush valley traversed by the river Serchio and is an area full of myths and legends, such as the story of the Devil’s Bridge at Borgo a Mozzano. This bridge is built in such a way that it seems to defy the laws of architecture and gravity.
The famous Brunello wine is also made here in Tuscany, in a corner of the region around the town of Montalcino, in the heart of the Ombrone Valley. Nearby, along a dirt track, is one of the jewels of Romanesque architecture: the abbey of Sant’Antimo. This church is one of the most important of its kind in Italy and welcomes visitors with the silent calm of its cool interior as the first leaves begin to fall outside.
To the east are the towns of San Quirico and Pienza. Pienza is known for being the ‘ideal city’ of Pope Pious II who was born here. The main square is perfectly formed and the delicious fragrance of locally made pecorino cheese wafts from the town’s many alimentari, or grocery stores.
The next town to visit is Buonconvento, a medieval hamlet with red brick city walls. Rapolano Terme is also worth a visit, as well as the charming historic Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore which dates back to the 14th century. The abbey was built by the monks and is home to an important cycle of frescoes. Visitors to the abbey experience the same magical atmosphere as those who go to the impressive open air San Galgano cathedral. This cathedral is in the Merse Valley, in the province of Siena. From here, there is a footpath which leads to the Monte Siepi hermitage, home of the famous sword in the rock which was placed there by the saint as evidence of his giving up of arms and becoming a peaceful hermit.
Another atmospheric location to visit in Autumn is Massaciuccoli Lake. The lake, which was much loved by Puccini, is delicately shrouded by morning mist at this time of year. The Galleria Palatina and the Fattori Museum in Livorno are both home to many works of art by Fattori which depict this mystical part of Tuscany.
