Mountaineering on the Apuan Alps
From the rockface of the Pizzo d’Uccello to the Procinto, a series of routes surrounded by nature
The Apuan rock is very often unreliable or unstable and therefore not suitable for mountaineering, although many famous climbers have tested their strength on these mountains, marking out routes that by now have become proper classical routes. In recent years, as climbing has gained popularity, also new possibilities have been identified in almost all the groups of mountains in this chain. Starting from the famous north wall of the Pizzo d'Uccello there are routes up to the Gabellaccia, to the Torri di Monzone, to the Contrario, to the Sumbra, to the Corchia and finally the Procinto and Monte Penna.
Routes with fixed ropes
"Bruni" Route to Monte Procinto (1,177m above sea level), Inaugurated in 1893 it helps make the peak of this unmistakable quadrangular tower or gendarme more easily accessible. The fixed route starts with a metal ladder and proceeds with footholds dug out of the rock in this practically vertical face; then the route moves over to the left by way of a ledge, enters into a narrow gorge reaching up into the top part which is cone-shaped and where there is a garden full of various essences and a cave into which filters a tiny spring.
Difference in level 150 m
Average time 30 min
"Renato Salvadori" Route to Monte Forato (1,223 m above sea level)
An easy route prepared with apparatus that allows the climber to go up in safety to the peak of the great natural arc of the Monte Forato that connects the twin peaks. From the Foce di Petrosciana you go the whole way along the south-east crest in order to reach the south peak and then from here link up with the Foce di Valli.
Average time 50 min
"Vecchiacci" Route to Monte Sella (1,739 m above sea level)
A long route prepared with apparatus that connects Monte Focoletta to Passo Sella passing under the Alto di Sella. It does not present great difficulties as long as you watch out for stones that can fall from the ridge.
Average time 4 hrs approx.
"Pizzo d'Uccello" Route (1,781 m above sea level)
The Pizzo d'Uccello, the northernmost of the Apuan peaks, dominates the Lunigiana side of the Park with its impressive north wall. The vertiginous rockface of 700 metres extends breadthwise for several kilometres, forming a vast and spectacular amphitheatre at the height of which two routes with fixed ropes have been prepared, consenting the climber to make a start on the wall in the most accessible points or to carry out a circular route. The starting-place for these fixed routes is the Cave Cantonaccio that can be reached from the Solco di Equi Terme or via the marble transport road from Ugliancaldo.
The route with apparatus "Domenico Zaccagna" connects the Cave del Cantonaccio to Foce Lizzari (1,250 m above sea level) and Nattapiana ridge, trail sign CAI no. 190
The route with apparatus "M. Piotti"; from the Foce Lizzari the CAI trail sign no. 191 runs under the Nattapiana ridge up to Foce a Giovo from where in a short time you can reach the summit of the Pizzo dUccello.
Route with fixed ropes "Torrini-Galligani"; this connects Cave Cantonaccio to Foce a Siggioli (1,390 m above sea level) and to the Capradossa ridge. It is definitely the most spectacular and the hardest of the three with a difference in level of 450 m, and takes about 2 hrs. Requires particular attention, especially during the descent, to safety manoeuvres, as well as not suffering from vertigo.
Route with fixed ropes "degli Alberghi"
This new route prepared with apparatus ascends from the Valle degli Alberghi to the Passo delle Pecore, situated between the Forbice and the Contrario, thus linking up to the new refuge "Orto di Donna". It requires a lot of technique and above all presents some difficulties in the descent, particularly as there is no alternative good path via which to go back down. It is advised only to excursionists and climbers who are very expert. That starting-point is reached from Casa Biforco (above Forno di Massa) via an unmarked footpath.
Average time 1 hr 45 min.