I hate that when I visit a city it’s often difficult to find free things to do other than wander the streets. Every church or museum that charges an entry fee really adds up; it’s easy to spend 30, 40 or even 50 euros in a day just to see art.
Nobody every said Florence was cheap, but there remain some free or low-cost things to see. And in this case, the city itself IS a work of art; its many palazzi and streets are in fact “sites” to visit. In the list below, everything is FREE unless a price is listed.
Florence seen from the banks of the Arno
Churches
The Duomo – is still free to enter! Of course if you want to climb up the dome or the adjacent tower, you’ll have to pay.
Orsanmichele – the city’s granary-turned-church thanks to a miraculous Madonna; visit the inside to see the madonna in her fabulous jeweled tabernacle (actually it’s inlaid glass and sculpted marble but it shines like jewels!). The outside niches hosted the sculptures that started the artist revolution called The Renaissance, but now copies are in their place. Many of the originals are housed in a museum on the building’s top floor. This museum is open Monday 10am to 5pm, entrance is free.
San Miniato al Monte. Photo: Flickr user Archigeek
San Miniato al Monte – A 11th to 13th-century church in the Romanesque style that dominates the southern hill of the city. Walk up early in the morning for a good dose of fresh cool air.
Santa Trinità – Near the bridge of the same name, this church has a chapel by Ghirlandaio and many important Quattrocento altarpieces.
Santa Felicità – Over the Ponte Vecchio, on a small piazza to the left (so small you might miss it) is this Renaissance church with a chapel (to the right of the entrance) that has an important altarpiece by Pontormo.
Santissima Annunziata – A very “Florentine” church still used for society weddings, it houses a miraculous Madonna in a tabernacle made for her to the left of the entrance of the church (beyond the courtyard that precedes it). Mass is said hourly with the congregation turned towards this painting and the many ex-votos that are hung nearby. The courtyard or cloister features frescoes by the most important Mannerist painters although they have been affected by the weather of the ages and are in some parts illegible. Inside has been Baroquized.
Santo Spirito – You have to pay to get into the church of San Lorenzo by Brunelleschi, but this very similar church in the Oltrarno is free – if you can find it when it’s open! Closed Wednesdays and for a long lunch hour.
Ognissanti – This Baroque church on a wide piazza that gives on to the Arno has two detached frescoes (taken off the wall for restoration but put back in pretty much their original location) by Ghirlandaio and Botticelli. The latter artist is buried here.
The church of the Ognissanti
Refectories (Cenacoli)
Florence boasts numerous convents with frescoes of the Last Supper in the refectory, or dining hall. These are free to visit:
Cenacolo di Sant’ Apollonia - The nunnery of Sant’Apollonia, near Piazza San Marco, has a strange fresco by Andrea del Castagno of the Last Supper with the Crucifixion above. It was discovered only in the Napoleonic era when the convents were “suppressed” or closed. Get a close look at the wonky perspective used by this artist who would normally be perfectly capable of one-point-perspective. Did he think the ladies would not notice?
Cenacolo di San Salvi - Andrea del Sarto painted a Last Supper at this out-of-the way convent in a residential neighbourhood reachable by bus. There is never anyone there and the museum contains other works from this period that in any other city would be a major tourist attraction. I wrote a San Salvi itinerary last year if you’re interested.
Cenacolo di Ognissanti has a Last Supper by Ghirlandaio 1488 and also conserves its original hand-washing station. Next to the church mentioned above, open Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday mornings from 9-12.
Cenacolo di Fuligno - This last supper by Perugino is seriously off the tourist track. Aside from the fresco there is a display of Tuscan artists influenced by Perugino who was from Perugia in Umbria. It’s only open Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 9-12 but it’s free!
Perugino in Florence - Cenacolo di Fuligno
Palazzi and other stuff
The Palazzo Davanzati was free until they recently started charging 2 euros to get in, but it’s worth it to see this Early Renaissance home complete with wall paintings and furniture (recreated with some fantastical imagination but it gives you a sense of the past). Admission includes a guided visit to the top floor and its kitchens, but you may find that there are no slots available right away.
Chiostro dello Scalzo – this courtyard was frescoed by Andrea del Sarto, the great mannerist artist, from 1509 to 1536. The grisaille frescoes (monochromatic) represent scenes from the life of Saint John the Baptist, and the various Virtues. It was painted for a confraternity that was founded in 1376. This is supposed to be open Monday, Thursday, and Saturday from 8:15 to 13:30.
Palazzo Strozzi now houses 2 exhibition spaces but you can enjoy the outside as well as its monumental courtyard for free. This Renaissance Palace was influenced by the magnitude of the Medici Palace but got carried away. It is truly massive!
Free Museum entries
There are a few occasions a year during which state and other museums open for free. Stay tuned on TuscanyArts for the dates of these events like Culture Week (Settimana della Cultura), Amico Museo and FAI days (each Spring).
On top of this, Palazzo Strozzi is free on Thursday nights. Some other museums are free in conjunction with special events, like the late-night openings at the Pecci in Prato.
